Developing One-Arm Strength with the Uneven-Grip Pull-up
This is an excellent exercise for developing one-arm and lock-off strength. As the name implies, doing Uneven-Grip Pull-ups require a setup that offsets one hand 12 to 24 inches lower than the other....
View ArticleHypergravity Pull-up Training
American free-climbing legend Tony Yaniro famously pointed out that “if you cannot pull through a single hard move, then you have nothing to endure.” So it’s with this sentiment that you must resolve...
View ArticleGoal Setting for the New Year (& Beyond!)
Goals are the ultimate motivator. For many climbers, the long-term goal is simply to climb harder, while for others the ultimate goal is to succeed on a specific “lifetime project” or to achieve a...
View ArticleVideo: Alex Johnson on System Training
Nicros athlete, Alex Johnson, has set a goal for 2016: Boulder V14 and redpoint 5.14! To reach this goal Alex has embarked on a dedicated training program, one facet of which is some targeted System...
View ArticleIntro to Hangboard Training
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways....
View ArticleMy Favorite Core Exercise – Windshield Wipers
This is a fantastic—and relatively difficult—exercise that targets the abdominals, obliques, and all the muscles of the upper torso and shoulders. Initially, it may take you a few tries to get the hang...
View ArticleWrist Stabilizer and Finger Extensor Training
The finger flexor muscles (of the forearm) are the target of most climbing-specific exercises, and rightfully so–lack of finger strength and endurance often seem to be the limiting constraint when...
View ArticleGym Rope Power Training
Gym rope and inverted ladder climbing is one of the very best ways to develop awesome upper-body power. Legendary boulderer John Gill used rope climbing as a staple training exercise, and years later...
View ArticleScapular Pull-ups
The scapular pull-up is a training essential in the Hörst gym! Keeping your shoulders healthy and developing proper movement patterns in pulling motions demands the ability to forcefully depress,...
View ArticleAnticipating Moves and Developing Strategies
The best performers in sport are usually masters of anticipating upcoming difficulties (or the opponent) and developing novel strategies for winning. Climbing is no different. To just “climb a route as...
View ArticleProjecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!
For a foaming-at-the-mouth sport climber, nothing beats the feeling of going to work on a sick rig and piecing together a redpoint ascent before the sun sets on another great day at the crags. All too...
View ArticleTreating “Climber’s Elbow” (Medial Epicondylitis)
Pain near the medial epicondyle is commonly called “golfer’s elbow” or “climber’s elbow.” Pain develops in the tendons connecting the pronator teres muscle and/or the many forearm flexor muscles...
View ArticlePodcast: Energy System Training (and more!)
If you want to learn some cutting-edge climbing science and training know how, then grab a pencil and paper and listen to this one-hour podcast! I recently sat down with an old friend, Kris “Odub”...
View Article5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter!
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways....
View Article5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways....
View ArticleAlex Johnson –“The Art of Failure”
NICROS’ athlete, Alex Johnson, is one of the world’s best female climbers. In this video you’ll follow Alex as she works on the highball boulder problem, “The Swarm” (V13/8B) in Bishop, CA. Watch as...
View ArticleManaging the Fears of Falling & Failure
In this episode we’ll examine two of the most common fears among climbers—the fear of falling and the fear of failure—and I’ll arm you with several strategies for managing, and perhaps even...
View ArticleVideo: Kraft Works Training
I love a good training video as much as anyone…and this one rocks! Two minutes of pure power!! Thank you Cafe Kraft for this inspirational video!
View ArticleVideo: Hangboard Training for Maximum Grip Strength
Over the past few months I wrote and produced a five-episode training series for Epic-TV. Filmed and edited by Bruce Wilson (Three Peak Films), this series will rolled out into early Winter 2016-17...
View ArticleResearch on Hangboard Training
I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology, and motor learning for more than 25 years. While the science of climbing is still relatively young, there’s a...
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